Ciucas Mountain

Aug. 8, 2013

Our hike on Red Mountain turned out to be a practice run.   The main attraction in Chea is Ciucas (pronounced CHEW-kash) Mountain.  Our mission:  to reach the top (elevation 1,954 meters).  The estimated hiking time was 6 hours  (would that mean 12 hours for us?).

It doesn't take long to understand why we needed yesterday's practice hike.  This hike is much more challenging with steeper hills, rockier paths, and more obstacles.   I'm near the end of the pack.  When our line of hikers slows to a snail's pace, I know there is something difficult to navigate ahead.  At one point, we reach a particularly treacherous turn (at least for me).   One at a time, we cling to the mountain and tread sideways on a narrow shelf of uneven rock. Our fearless leader, Cornel, positions himself between each hiker and the precipitous cliff, while Dan extends a hand to pull each of us across.

The treacherous turn (Cornel in red, Dan in green)

It is incredibly hot, and we stop at a stream to cool off a bit.  The cold water feels REALLY good!  We have a long way to go yet, so we don't rest for long.  Back on our feet.  Keep climbing.

The mountain is beautiful.  Sure, we're getting tired, but the scenery and the views on the way up are simply spectacular.  Pictures can never do it justice.

Eventually, we reach a plateau.  Having no experience with mountain hiking, when I see everyone put down the backpacks and take out a snack, I think we've reached the top.  But no, it's only a temporary respite.  Dan offers me a biscuit which I decline thinking it will only make me more thirsty and I'm rationing my water supply.  But he insists I'll need the energy for the next part of the climb.  I take his advice.  Lesson 3:  In life, as in mountain climbing, take advantage of every plateau.

Taking advantage of the plateau

We continue on.  Much to my surprise, we come to a paved road.  The children yell and wave at every truck that goes by, and the truckers beep their horns.  This part of the hike is easy.  Good.  I've earned an easy walk for awhile.  We pass by some villagers hauling wood.  Daniel explainsthat their foresting is illegal, but they have little choice to support their families. 

Illegal foresters

Next, I see this road sign:

5 more kilometers?  Well, I've trained for a 5K, and I know I can manage that distance, and on a paved road this will be a piece of cake.  We walk a bit further.  Cornel then explains that he has called ahead and a truck will be coming to take us the rest of the way.   OK, so this is good.  I hang out with the kids waiting for the truck.   These are the vehicles that show up:

I'm not kidding.  25 children and 9 adults pile into these two trucks.  What a ride!  I'm sitting in the front seat next to the driver, and I hear the kids in the open truck behind me screaming and laughing at every twist and turn.  I'm not a car expert, but I know the smell of a burning engine, and I am doubtful that the truck is going to make it up the hill.

At long last, we arrive at Cabana Ciucas.  Exhausted, we slide onto benches in the dining room, ready for a hearty, rewarding lunch.  Big bowls of steaming hot soup and freshly baked bread are served.  Yes, this is the life!  We're relaxing, laughing, enjoying our success.  

Arrival at Cabana Ciucas

Relaxing at Cabana Ciucas

Then, it's time to move on.  Move on?  This isn't the top?  Nope.  We're only about 2/3 up the mountain.  "From here on up, there aren't any trees or shady spots.  Wear you hats, put on your sunscreen.  Let's get going before the weather shifts".  With full bellies and refilled water bottles, we continue on.

The final third of the hike up

Along the way, the children bring me some wild mountain berries.  They are delicious.  Our breakfast tea is made from them.  I had hoped to find some packaged tea to bring home, but I think it's the kind of thing you can only enjoy if you live there.

At a gorgeous overlook, Daniel joins me in a few yoga stretches. We talked about introducing the children to yoga, but we never quite worked it into the schedule.

Picking mountain berries

At the next plateau, I see writing on the mountain.  I think this must be the peak, with a congratulatory message from a previous hiker.  Wrong again.  But still, it was a chance to give our legs a break, take in some inspiring words, and continue on.

Translation:  Be a friend with God, and your life will be happy.

As usual, I'm near the back of the line.  I see children ahead of me running and laughing, standing on top of a rock and snapping pictures.  That's it!  That MUST be the top.  With one more burst of energy, I pick up my pace to join them.  I pose for pictures like everyone else, with a big smile of victory.

Wait a minute.  Where is everyone going?  Isn't the way down in the other direction?  No, we're not at the top yet?  I can't believe it.

We finally DO reach the top.  The view is spectacular.  We can see for miles in every directions.  Sheep are grazing in the fields.  The quiet and the solitude are breathtaking. 

At the peak of Ciucas Mountain, with Ana and Geta

I'm quite certain this has been the most physically challenging thing I have ever accomplished.  

Lesson 4:  The more difficult the challenge, the more satisfying the reward.

Red Mountain

August 7, 2013

After an early breakfast, we set out for our first mountain hike.  Our destination was Red Mountain, so called because there are flowers at the top that bloom red in the Spring.   It’s estimated as a 4-hour hike.  It took us 7-hours.  Lesson 1:  Our hiking time = posted time x 2.

I tried to learn some Romanian, and start connecting with the kids along the way.   It doesn’t take long to recognize which children are really anxious to talk to me in English.  One 12-year old boy, Daniel, becomes a constant companion.  When I asked him why he wants to learn English, he said “because it is the businessman’s language”.  Very precocious, I think.

Mihaela (teacher), Iouna, me, Bianca

Catching our breath on the way up Red Mountain 

Daniel is on my right

It’s a beautiful hike, with only a few strenuous spots, but it’s terribly hot and we’re not very robust hikers.  We take frequent breaks for pictures (read:  we need to catch our breath).

At the top, we stop for a bit at the cabana and enjoy the view.

We took a different route on our trip back down the mountain (thankfully, a shorter one).  I found out that while uphill is more strenuous, downhill is more treacherous.  Lesson 2:  Test a rock in a stream for stability before stepping on it.

Our downhill trek took us past this incredibly large, modern weather satellite station.  I don't know the name of it, so I couldn't find more information about it online, but I was told that it provides weather information for half of Europe.  Right here, in Cheia -- who knew?

Weather station in the background

Cheia Monastery

When we returned to our hotel, we had a short rest before our first English class, and then dinner.  After a day of physical challenge, I hoped the students would be ready to switch gears for some mental challenge.  I'll tell you more about that in another posting.

Journey to Cheia

Tuesday, Aug. 6

Our destination for English Camp is Cheia (pronounced KEY-ah), in southeastern Transylvania, near Ciucas (pronounced CHEW-kahs) Mountain, in the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains.  It’s bigger than a village, but smaller than a town;  it's called a “comunei".

Our journey takes us through the city of Ploiesti.  Our first stop (well, actually, it was our 3^rd stop, but first the first two places were closed for renovation) was Zamfira Monastery.   The children gathered inside while a nun told them about the history and the art of the monastery.  

The artist painted this monastery when he was only 17 years old.  Incredibly, it took him only 1 ½ years, even though he would paint only on days of complete fasting.   I noticed immediately that the icons looked different than the ones I had seen previously.  The artist broke with traditional Byzantine style, and painted faces of ordinary people in his icons.   This was the first monastery where I was allowed to take pictures, so you finally get to see what I’ve been talking about.

Zamfira Monastery

Zamfira Monastery

Before we leave, we're served a delicious lunch of soup, fish, and bread.  Wait.  Is that popcorn I smell?  Yes, indeed.  Bowls of popcorn are put on the table for dessert.

Our second stop was the Unirea Salt Mine.  It is the largest salt mine in Europe.  It was mined furiously between 1943-1970.  As the bus unloaded, the teachers and kids took out their volleyballs and badminton rackets.  What?  Why are they taking those?  Once again, I don’t understand what we’re doing.

Our gang in Unirea Salt Mine

We descended 220 meters in a small, single, very crowded, unstable looking elevator.  (I flashback to the Tower of Terror).   But we make it down safely, and step out into a cool, dim, empty, cavernous, playground.   Who would have thought to turn the remains of  an exhausted salt mine into a playground?  It’s brilliant!  The kids run around and play ball.  At one end, there are table tennis, billiards, and a race track.   The kids had a blast!  The adults had hot chocolate.

Near the playground is a statue of the national poet.  I thought this was an odd location for a statue of a poet, and asked why it was here.  The answer:  because he is our national poet.  OK.

Unirea Salt Mine

Unirea Salt Mine, statue of Mihai Eminescu

The salt mine has also been used as a sanatorium for respiratory disease.  The purity of the air is supposedly good for respiratory illnesses.  What I found most fascinating, is that it was also used as a prison during Communist time.  Prisoners would be used as forced labor to mine salt.  When they sent salt up, food was sent down.  There was no way to escape.  After a few years, they just died down there from constantly breathing in the salt.  I guess the air is healthy for respiratory disease (in short visits), but lethal as a steady dose.

Our last stop before reaching Cheia was Suzana Monastery, another beautiful national treasure.  

Suzana Monastery

Suzana Monasery, with Razvan and Daniel

We finally arrived in Cheia.  I was pleasantly surprised to find we are staying in a charming resort.  All the small houses you see in the picture are the campground where families can come and stay.  We stayed in one of the villas.  I'm delighted to have my own room with everything I need for personal comfort.

We arrive at Cabana Ciucas, in Cheia

Our villa

We gathered for dinner, and then settled in for the night.  Tomorrow is our first day of English Camp.

Our rooms at Cabana Ciucas